Day 7, Thursday, Rome to Venice

After an early, early awakening, we boarded a 7:50 AM train from Rome to Venice.  I'm writing this from the train, in between study sessions we are having on the train.  When we arrive, we will be transferring to a boat to go to Lido Island to visit the oldest Jewish cemetary in Italy.

In the study sessions this AM, Haim is reading to us from the eye-witness stories of the Roman Jews' deportation by the Nazis in October 1943.  The book "Black Sabbath: A Journey Through a Crime Against Humanity," by Robert Katz, tells of the Jews' transport from Rome to Germany, by way of northern Italy. The comparisons are chilling, as we ride in first class,on a speedy, air-conditioned train, with ample free drinks and snacks, but pass station after station in the same route taken by our Italian brethren who were packed in cattle cars with nothing to eat or drink and who were being sent to their deaths.  

Arriving in Venice, the weather called for heavy thunderstorms, but we were greeted by bright sunshine and pleasant temperatures.  The water taxi that we take to Lido Island hits pretty significant waves, but we all arrive (not having lost any cookies) to the beautiful island.  The water taxi cannot dock where we are supposed to have lunch because of the waves, so we walk from our docking station at a fast pace for about 20 minutes.  

Every walk we take is "only a few minutes" but it is never less than 20.  Our Italian guide Marina does not understand any pace except superfast and she keeps losing the older part of our group - oh, I mean everyone in our group since we are almost all seniors.  My knees and back are doing OK, but not great, and by the end of the day today I will have my first meltdown.  

After lunch we walk (far) to the Jewish Cemetery and meet our guide from the Jewish Community of Venice, Dr. Shaul Bassi.  After a short study session we take another long walk to the gate of the cemetery to discover we cannot get inside.  

We have a wonderful lecture by Dr. Bassi about the Jews of Venice, who today number only about 500 and continue to be a shrinking community.  This is because the city of Venice, itself, is a shrinking community and the 2 islands making up the city are primarily populated with tourists.  There are no cars in most locations and it is so difficult to move people, goods, and services via canals or by foot, that the people are moving to suburban areas.  

A water taxi picks us up from the cemetery area on Lido Island and returns us to Saint Marks Square on the main island.  Actually it drops us "5 minutes" from St. Marks - ie another 20 minute "death march."  The difference here is that the tourists are packed elbow to elbow on the streets and it is impossible to maneuver in the square.  

We take a short break and do another "short walk" to the hotel.  If you've ever been in Venice you know that any walk involves bridges - that means stairs to climb up and down each time you cross over a canal.  This last walk - at "death march" pace does me in.  We are supposed to be showering, dressing, grabbing dinner and be ready to leave for the opera to see La Traviata in about an hour.  I ask how far a walk it is to the opera and this time I'm told 10 - 20 minutes.  

Even though we've paid (months ago) a great deal for the tickets, I sit in the lobby waiting for my room key and decide not to go. My kind, sweet husband wants to stay at the hotel, too, and take me to dinner later.  I finally convince him I'm too tired to eat and that he should go.  I'm sound asleep by 8:00 PM and don't wake until 6:30 the next morning when the alarm goes off.